Spices and How to Know Them

Perfection altered, would produce a flaw. God cannot err, hence, cannot change His law. First, follow Nature, and your judgment frame By her just standard which is still the same. Unerring Nature, still divinely bright, One clear, unchanged and universal light. Life, force, and beauty must all impart; At once the source, and end, the test of Art.” When the spice grinder will consider how hard it is to hide the spark of Nature, whoever yields reward to him who seeks and loves her best, and when the retail dealer of spices will remember that there is another man on the other side of the counter who is entitled to his money’s worth, then, and not until then, will the evil of the adulteration of spices be done away with. A merchant who will, knowingly, sell to his customer adulterated spices at the value of pure goods is worse than a thief, because he not only robs them of their money but gives them poison for their stomach. Spice millers should not be counterfeiters! How can they afford to imperil their reputation by advertising “scheme goods”? Let them grind their spices to give Nature’s flavors as they grow in the balmy forests of the East Indies. Let them not mix these spices to suit the price of the retail dealer, but grind them pure, to please the tongue and the palate, and then hang out their sign, as their business would suggest, as spice millers or grinders, instead of “spice manufacturers.” If the retail dealer of adulterated spices trusts a customer who will not pay his indebtedness, he calls the man a rogue, but forgets that the greater rogue is himself; that his customer has the law on his side, and that his best witness is the adulterated goods which were sold him; furthermore, this dealer is teaching to the clerk whom he has taken into his employ, with a promise to teach the young man the trade and good business principles of an honest merchant, the trade of a thief, and as such teaches him to rob his employer. If the merchant breaks his part of the contract, can he expect the clerk to keep his? If the clerk, trained by the dealer in dishonesty, steals from the cash-drawer, would it be right to discharge him with a tarnish on the good name he had when he entered such employ? Let the dealer keep pure goods, and teach his clerk their merit. By so doing, he can be twice armed when he is selling in competition with a dealer of adulterations. Let not the merchant profess to seek after the prosperity of the country; let him wonder not that business is dull; that labor is unemployed; that enterprise is dead, when he is doing all he can to destroy business and commercial prosperity by undermining the public confidence, which is the foundation upon which all commercial enterprise rests. Nothing is more essential to business prosperity than a confidence that prosperous, existing conditions will remain unchanged. He who is helping to destroy that confidence makes himself a stumbling block in the public highway of humanity and, as such, is a detriment to mankind. He is the greatest enemy to self that humanity can produce. He is like a vine which climbs the tree and obtains its life by sucking the life of that to which it clings. No man can be a good citizen who will wrong his fellow man simply because the laws of the country will protect him or, in other words, will not punish him for such wrongdoing. A miller or retail dealer of mixed or adulterated spices is as much a criminal as the man who has ingenuity enough to shape a coin from alloy and stamp it as a legal standard, or as one who counterfeits a bank note, for all are guilty of illegal acts to obtain wealth. The government punishes the counterfeiter of money, but the dealer in adulterated goods is allowed freedom. The government will grant a patent for the latest improvement in machinery for mixing spices, but it will not grant a patent for a die to counterfeit bank notes. The dealing in adulterations is not confined to the poorer dealers. Among those who are guilty of this wrong we find the wealthy and those professing to be Christians—men who shudder at a dishonest act, but they apparently forget their duty to God and man. Is not such conduct mockery? Is it not offensive to God? If not, where could we find that which would be? Let men dare to do right if they wish to be successful and respected. Let them dare to do right for the sake of their fellow man who is striving for an honest living. Let them dare to do right and not wait for the law to compel them. Let them remember that there is something in an honest name which they cannot afford to lose! To the consumer of spices, this should be said: Be willing your grocer should live and obtain a profit for his work. Do not compel him to handle adulterated goods by quoting him the price of his neighbor dealer who sells the adulterated stock. Spices of high order are more costly, but are cheap to the consumer by reason of excess of flavor and strength. Let your dealer know you can appreciate a good article and, if he handles adulterated goods, remind him “that he may fool all the people some of the time, and some of the people all of the time, but he can’t fool all of the people all of the time.” [1]As an illustration of the extent of the adulteration of spices, the fact may be cited that one firm in New York City used and put upon the market in their spices more than 5,000 pounds of cocoanut shells. To show how bold the custom has become, the following quotation is copied from a journal devoted to spices: “All necessary information for spice manufacturing supplied.” And the following advertisements appear: “Manufacturers of spice mixtures and mustard. Goods made to order for wholesale.” “Grocers’ spice mixtures and cayenne pepper a specialty.” Another reads: “Manufacturers of all kinds of spice mixtures. My celebrated brand of P. D. pepper is superior to any made; samples sent on application. Goods shipped to all parts of the United States. Spice mixtures a specialty.” Out of all samples obtained at random from the miller or retail dealer, one-half to two-thirds have been found to be adulterated. Such a state of affairs is simply barbarous. ----- Footnote 1: Since the words on adulterations were written, the pure food laws of the different states have been greatly enforced, which has reduced adulterating almost to an entirety; but enough yet remains to make them of value. Cloves were prepared with the volatile oil extracted, and with the cloves there were ground clove stems, roasted shells, wheat flour, peas, and minerals. Allspice is ground with burnt shells and crackers, spent clove stems and charcoal and mineral color. Ginger, with corn flour, mustard hulls, coloring, and yellow corn meal. Mace, with flour buckwheat, wild mace, and corn meal. Cayenne, with rice flour, stale shipstuff, yellow corn meal, tumeric, and mineral red. Cassia, with ground shells and crackers, tumeric, and minerals. Cinnamon, with cassia, peas, starch, mustard hulls and tumeric, mineral cracker dust, burnt shells, or charcoal. Pepper, with refuse of all kinds, ground crackers, cocoanut shells, cayenne, peas, beans, yellow corn meal, buckwheat hulls, nutmegs, cereal, starch, mustard hulls, rice flour, charcoal, and pepper dust. Mustard, with tumeric for color, and cayenne to tone it up, cereal starch, peas, yellow corn meal, ginger, and gypsum. By comparing prices in the following table of ground and whole spices, we may see to what extent adulteration is carried on. This adulteration is so largely practiced that it has given rise to a branch of the manufacturing industry of great magnitude, which has for its sole object the manufacture of articles known as “spice mixtures,” or “pepper dust,” which are known to the trade by such technical abbreviations as “P. D.” This is a venerable fraud, which has expanded with rapidity. TABLE ────────────────────────────────────────────────── KINDS OF SPICE GROUND WHOLE PRODUCT PRICE ────────────────────────────────────────────────── Cassia, Batavia, 7 to 7½ cents 10 cents Cassia, China, 5¼ cents 42 cents Cassia, Saigon, 36 to 40 cents Cloves, Amboyna, 27 cents 32 cents Ginger, African, 5 cents 8 cents Ginger, Cochin, 13 cents 12 cents Mace, 50 cents Nutmegs, 110s, 48 cents Pepper, black, 18 cents 18 cents Singapore, Pepper, black, West 16 cents 15 cents Coast, Pepper, white, 29 cents 32 cents Penang, Pepper, red, 9 cents 10 cents Zanzibar, Pimento, 5 cents Mustard, yellow, 4 cents 12 cents Mustard, brown, 5 cents 12 cents ────────────────────────────────────────────────── Of course, the above prices are standard for the year when the comparison was made, but it is well to examine the figures as given and compare the price of the whole spice with the ground. Such comparison affords good indications of the extent of adulteration, since the meal is sold below the cost of the whole spice. We now find this article put up in barrels, as “P. D. Pepper,” “P. D. Ginger,” “P. D. Cloves,” and so on through the entire aromatic list. Different cities use different material for their pepper dust, using that which is most easily and, therefore, most cheaply obtained in their locality. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [Illustration: Fig. 20. _Capsicum_ Fig. 38. LINSEED Fig. 39. PALM SEED Fig. 40. EXTERIOR HUSK OF RAPE SEED Fig. 44. PURE CAYENNE PEPPER Fig. 45. CAYENNE PEPPER, ADULTERATED] CHAPTER III HOW TO DETECT ADULTERATIONS IN SPICES—THEIR FORMATION AND ANALYSIS AS far as its practical use to the merchant or consumer of spices is concerned, it would be as well, perhaps, if this chapter remained unwritten, and yet this treatise would be far from complete without it, as much of that which is herein contained is of the utmost importance, could it be put into practice. In this chapter I attempt to give ways to detect adulterations, but the lamentable fact is that the general merchants have neither the time nor the facilities at hand to discover the foreign substance. There are two principal ways of detecting adulterations in spices, which depend upon the difference in the structure of the cells between the adulterants and the true spice to which they are added, and also on their proximate composition. The former difference is recognized by the mechanical separation and by the use of the microscope, and the latter by chemical analysis. The adulterations found in spices may be classed in four grades: _First._ Integuments of grains of seeds, such as bran of wheat and buckwheat, hulls of mustard seed, flax seed, etc. _Second._ Farinaceous substances of low price, as spice damaged in transportation or by long storage, middlings, corn meal, and stale ship bread. _Third._ Leguminous seeds, as peas and beans, which contribute largely to the profit of the mixer. _Fourth._ Various articles chosen with reference to their suitableness to bring up the mixtures, as nearly as possible, to the required standard color of the genuine article; various shades from light colors to dark brown may be obtained by skillful roasting of the farinaceous and leguminous substances, and a little tumeric goes a long way to give a rich yellow color to real mustard made from pale counterfeit of wheat flour and terra-alba, or the defective paleness of artificial black pepper is brought to the desired tone by judicious sifting in of a finely pulverized charcoal. From what has been said of the different foreign substances used for adulterations of spices and condiments, the necessity of knowing the structure and formation of the molecules of both principal and foreign elements which constitute the principal tissues of the particular plant-parts used for the adulterations is apparent, while in the chemical examination the principle of proximate analysis must be understood and applied. It is also necessary that the analyst should be thoroughly acquainted with the application of the microscope, to determine the cellular structure, to make determinations of proximate principles in the substances under examination, since a mechanical separation by the microscope is more expeditious and is more at the command of the majority of persons searching for adulterations. For a mechanical analysis of food separations, a powerful microscope of good workmanship is required. It is better if it is supplied with a substance condenser and Nical prisms for the use of polarized light. Objectives of an inch and half inch, and, for some starches, one-fifth inch, equivalent focus, are sufficient. One eye-piece of medium depth, one-fourth to one-sixth, adjusted at 160 degrees is enough, with plenty of good light. The analyst should also have plenty of sieves of 40 to 60 meshes to the inch to be used for separation, which will furnish means of detecting adulterants and selecting particles for investigation, and will often reveal the presence of foreign material without further examination, since many adulterants are not ground so fine as the spices to which they are added, and by passing the mixtures through the sieves the coarser particles remaining will be either recognized at once by an unaided educated eye or with a pocket lens. In this way, tumeric is readily separated from mustard and yellow corn meal; mustard hulls and cayenne, from low-grade pepper. Where a pocket lens is insufficient, the higher power of the microscope is confirmatory. It is also desirable to be provided with a dissecting microscope for selecting particles for examination from large masses of ground spice, and for this a large Zeiss stand, made for that purpose, is best, but simpler forms, or even a hand lens, will answer the purpose. For smaller apparatus, a few beakers, watch crystals, stirring rods, and specimen tubes, with bottles for reagents, will be sufficient, in addition to the ordinary glass slides and covers for glasses. The reagents required for chemical analysis (if no great amount is used) are as follows: Strong alcohol, Ammonia, Chloral-hydrate solution—8 parts to 5 of water, Glycerine, Iodine solution—water 15 parts, iodide of potash 20 parts, iodine 5 parts; water distilled.